Water Heater Leaking? (HERE’S WHAT TO DO) (2024)

While a small amount of water may seem harmless, it may eventually cause severe water damage to walls, floors, and subfloors if the leak is not taken care of quickly. In the worst cases, the area around the water heater could even experience flooding. What could have been a quick, inexpensive fix has now turned into costly repair bills.

In addition to water damage, serious health issues can arise due to mold and mildew growth in those wet, damp areas. According to the CDC, children, those with severe allergic reactions, or immune suppression are at highest risk of experiencing medical issues from exposure to mold.

With a water heater leak, you want to make diagnosing and fixing the problem a high priority. The leak won’t magically go away on its own no matter how much you hope, so read on to learn what you should do.

Obviously, if water is spraying out of pipes connected to the water heater, you have an issue. It’s the other signs of water that are often difficult to find the source of leak (if there is one).

Sometimes, normal condensation from the water heater tank, pipes, or a nearby appliance is the culprit if you notice a small pool of water around the base of the tank. This is usually more noticeable during winter months when the inlet water temperature is especially cold or when filling the water heater for the first time. Once the temperature of the water in the tank has a chance to heat up, the outside condensation generally goes away.

If you’re convinced it’s not condensation, closely inspect any plumbing to the water heater, valves, and the tank itself. If the leak is not obvious, use paper towels to wipe down all wet areas and take some time to observe to see if any area shows signs of water. Fortunately, water has to obey the laws of gravity so start from the top and work your way down.

If you still don’t see signs of the leak, lay some paper towels in the area you originally found dampness and come back periodically to inspect. If the problem doesn’t reappear after a day or two, it’s most likely nothing to be worried about but it’s best to keep an eye on it for a bit.

After confirming your water heater is actually leaking, you should immediately turn off the power source before you do anything else. When you’re dealing with water and electricity, bad things can (and do) happen. Natural gas has its own dangers as well.

Sometimes, normal condensation from the water heater tank, pipes, or a nearby appliance is the culprit if you notice a small pool of water around the base of the tank. This is usually more noticeable during winter months when the inlet water temperature is especially cold or when filling the water heater for the first time. Once the temperature of the water in the tank has a chance to heat up, the outside condensation generally goes away.

If you’re convinced it’s not condensation, closely inspect any plumbing to the water heater, valves, and the tank itself. If the leak is not obvious, use paper towels to wipe down all wet areas and take some time to observe to see if any area shows signs of water. Fortunately, water has to obey the laws of gravity so start from the top and work your way down.

If you still don’t see signs of the leak, lay some paper towels in the area you originally found dampness and come back periodically to inspect. If the problem doesn’t reappear after a day or two, it’s most likely nothing to be worried about but it’s best to keep an eye on it for a bit.

Next you’ll want to turn off the water source. Your water heater should have a dedicated cold water shut-off valve typically located near where the cold water inlet pipe connects to the tank. This valve will be one of two types:

If the leak is serious enough where you cannot safely get to the shut-off valve, you will need to locate the main shut-off valve for the house. In cooler climates, the main water line often enters through the floor of the foundation to keep the water from freezing. The main valve is located near this area next to the water meter.

In warmer climates, the main shut-off valve is normally next to the water meter in an outdoor box with an access cover or near the street. You may need a large wrench or curb key to close the valve. It’s a good idea for every homeowner to know where the main water shutoff is BEFORE an emergency occurs.

he temperature and pressure relief valve (aka: “T&P valve” or “TPR valve”) is an important safety device that’s a part of every standard electric or gas water heater. This valve is located at the top of the water heater and is connected to a pipe that runs down the side of the tank. pressure-relief-valveIts purpose is to relieve pressure by letting some water out (usually a cup or two) in case the water inside the tank gets too hot.

Water expands when it is heated and the water tank can actually explode if the pressure relief valve is stuck closed. When you suspect a leak from the pressure relief valve, it is either defective, the connection from the T&P valve to the water tank is not watertight, or it is simply doing its job of releasing excess tank pressure. With the later, you don’t necessarily have a leak but possibly a more serious issue that should be looked at by a professional. Replacement of a bad pressure relief valve is pretty straightforward.

Like other appliances, a water heater has a limited lifespan, which is generally about 10-15 years. To see how old your water heater is, you’ll need to look up its age.

Over time, sediment inside the tank starts to break down the interior of the water tank and rust starts to form. This rust then starts slowly eating away at the tank walls until a leak develops. When an internal leak occurs due to corrosion and deterioration, replacing the water heater with a new one is really the only option. Out with the old and in with the new.

Often, when you feel like your water heater is not heating, it’s actually due to a water tank leak which allows hot water to escape and be replaced with more cold water.

Once you’ve determined where the leak is coming from, you need to decide quickly if you want to repair it or replace your old water heater with a new one. Just because you found the leak doesn’t mean it will stop leaking by itself. Many repairs or part replacements on a water heater are fairly easy to do yourself but if you have any doubts, please call a professional.

Once you’ve determined where the leak is coming from, you need to decide quickly if you want to repair it or replace your old water heater with a new one. Just because you found the leak doesn’t mean it will stop leaking by itself. Many repairs or part replacements on a water heater are fairly easy to do yourself but if you have any doubts, please call a professional.

There are a couple reasons why the temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) could be leaking, making it a common source for the leak.

Most likely, you may have a faulty pressure relief valve or debris inside it are preventing it from operating correctly. This is especially true with older water heaters.

To test, place a bucket or bowl under the overflow tube and pull the tab on the pressure relief valve (so it’s pointing straight out). This will cause the valve to open and flush out any debris or particles. If the valve still leaks after flushing, the part will need to be replaced. (See: Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve Replacement)

If the T&P valve is leaking at the connection to the water tank, you may simply need to tighten the connection. If that doesn’t work, Teflon tape should be wrapped around the threaded connection to the tank. Do accomplish that, you’ll essentially need to follow the same instructions as if you were to be replacing the pressure relief.

If water is running down from the pressure relief valve, through the overflow pipe and to the floor, it’s possible that too much pressure is being built up inside the tank and the pressure relief valve is doing its job draining some water to relief this pressure. If this excess pressure is not released, the water heater tank could literally explode.

To determine if excessive pressure in the tank is the cause of the leak, turn the water heater thermostat to its lowest setting, turn on the water supply, turn on the power (or gas), and observe your water heater for a short period of time. If water continues to drain out of the overflow pipe to relieve pressure, shut everything off and call a licensed plumber to have them look at it.

This is one of the easiest to fix water heater leaks. First, try tightening the valve connection in case it’s loose. Otherwise, debris may be causing the valve to not work correctly or the valve is faulty and needs replacement. Test by flushing out the drain valve first. Place an empty container under the heater drain valve (or attach a hose and route it outside) and open the valve for a couple seconds. This will flush out any debris that may have been present. Close the valve and check for leaking.

If the drain valve continues to leak, an easy temporary fix is to screw on a garden hose end cap or hose nozzle to seal the valve. Eventually, you will want to replace the heater drain valve. Unlike the pressure relief valve, the heater drain valve is not a mandatory safety feature so it’s not urgent that it get replaced right away. But don’t forget about it if you use a temporary fix.